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Garrard 301 από την αρχή
Re: Garrard 301 από την αρχή
Μόλις παραλάβεις ανέβασε φωτογραφίες από το εσωτερικό, θέλω να δω σαν κατασκευή πως είναι.
Παναγιώτης
Re: Garrard 301 από την αρχή
ΤΑ ΣΠΑΕΙ!
Re: Garrard 301 από την αρχή
Gojakla wrote:ΤΑ ΣΠΑΕΙ!
Όντως, ασε που έκλεισε και το θέμα του χρώματος του 301.
Παναγιώτης
- AthanasiosL
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:00 pm
Re: Garrard 301 από την αρχή
Μόλις παραλάβεις ανέβασε φωτογραφίες από το εσωτερικό, θέλω να δω σαν κατασκευή πως είναι.
Οκ. Υπόψην οτι δεν είναι NSC (Nigel speed controller) αλλά η SG4 υλοποίηση του pyramid (diyaudio) - 4 phase shine wave generator.
ΤΑ ΣΠΑΕΙ!
Ελπίζω να μην τα σπάσει και στην πραγματικότητα
- AthanasiosL
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:00 pm
Re: Garrard 301 από την αρχή
Όντως, ασε που έκλεισε και το θέμα του χρώματος του 301.
Χα χα... Σκοπός βασικά ήτανε να ματσάρει με ASR phono σε look.
Re: Garrard 301 από την αρχή
Έριξα μια ματιά στο νήμα της DIYaudio, είναι σύνθετο σχέδιο και λείπει όλο το κομμάτι του ενισχυτή και του step up transformer. Καθόλου απλό στην υλοποίηση. Ελπίζω ο κατασκευαστής σου να ξέρει το κάνει. Εδώ το σχετικό νήμα
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue ... drive.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue ... drive.html
Παναγιώτης
- AthanasiosL
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:00 pm
Re: Garrard 301 από την αρχή
Εχει ενισχυτή class D 2×50W και sut. Θα ανεβάσω ινφο οταν βρω χρονο Παναγιωτη.
- AthanasiosL
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:00 pm
Re: Garrard 301 από την αρχή
Σχετικά με το controller
On the far left of the picture you see the tachometer.
The purple PCB is the generator of the sine-wave (SG4). It is feeded with a second line voltage from the power supply of the tachometer. It is drawing a very little power and it is sufficient.
The blue PCB next to the purple one is the amplifier which is getting the signal from the SG4 generator. It is a class D power amplifier and it is working really cool...almost no heat from it. It is feeded by the big transformer with the ELNA capacitors you see on the picture. Only very good components has been used for this build. The toroidal transformer which you see is the output one. It goes from 12 volts (from the power amplifier) to 24 volts in the output.
It deserved to be mentioned that in this build I have decided to use separate power supplies for every stage...It is more expensive but it is obviously better. The device is absolutely quiet and very cool. The NSC is good, but it is very volatile on the outside temperature. Also there must be constant setup of the RPMs because when the heat goes higher the chip starts to act strange...this is not an issue with the SG4 as the sine wave is generated by a software of the big square chip. Everything now depends on the fact how well your turntable (bearing+ platter is copping with the RPM's and the ability of the foremension combination to keep the RPM's stable.
Regarding the tachometer- the sensor needs to be mounted (somehow) under the platter to keep it tidy and clean. I do not like the outside mounting option as it is not an eye catchy. The sensor is getting the interruptions and is sending them to the arduino which starts to count and visualise the result on the display. It is a geniously easy. I am not exactly sure how the sensor will be mounted under the platter of garrard turntable but I am sure it will be easy.
There is a combination of switches for phase and voltage which I have already set for both frequencies. the Phase is not important for your case scenario as there is an option for thorens and linn turntables but it is working only in different schematics with double toroid transformers for both phases and it is just a different story.
So you will only have to set the frequency for your platter and to enjoy the music.There is a toggle switch for 33 and 45. When the switch is down it is working at 33 rpms. When the switch is up- it is for 45. The idler wheel shall be fixed for 33 RPMs. There are also 2 knobs on the right side of the controller. The left one is for frequency UP and the next one is for frequency DOWN. You will see that every press of the button is visualized on the small red display. If your idler wheel is set to 33 RPMs, the setting of the 33 RPMS is @ around 51hz. It depends on the wheel diameter and you will set it up very easy.
On the far left of the picture you see the tachometer.
The purple PCB is the generator of the sine-wave (SG4). It is feeded with a second line voltage from the power supply of the tachometer. It is drawing a very little power and it is sufficient.
The blue PCB next to the purple one is the amplifier which is getting the signal from the SG4 generator. It is a class D power amplifier and it is working really cool...almost no heat from it. It is feeded by the big transformer with the ELNA capacitors you see on the picture. Only very good components has been used for this build. The toroidal transformer which you see is the output one. It goes from 12 volts (from the power amplifier) to 24 volts in the output.
It deserved to be mentioned that in this build I have decided to use separate power supplies for every stage...It is more expensive but it is obviously better. The device is absolutely quiet and very cool. The NSC is good, but it is very volatile on the outside temperature. Also there must be constant setup of the RPMs because when the heat goes higher the chip starts to act strange...this is not an issue with the SG4 as the sine wave is generated by a software of the big square chip. Everything now depends on the fact how well your turntable (bearing+ platter is copping with the RPM's and the ability of the foremension combination to keep the RPM's stable.
Regarding the tachometer- the sensor needs to be mounted (somehow) under the platter to keep it tidy and clean. I do not like the outside mounting option as it is not an eye catchy. The sensor is getting the interruptions and is sending them to the arduino which starts to count and visualise the result on the display. It is a geniously easy. I am not exactly sure how the sensor will be mounted under the platter of garrard turntable but I am sure it will be easy.
There is a combination of switches for phase and voltage which I have already set for both frequencies. the Phase is not important for your case scenario as there is an option for thorens and linn turntables but it is working only in different schematics with double toroid transformers for both phases and it is just a different story.
So you will only have to set the frequency for your platter and to enjoy the music.There is a toggle switch for 33 and 45. When the switch is down it is working at 33 rpms. When the switch is up- it is for 45. The idler wheel shall be fixed for 33 RPMs. There are also 2 knobs on the right side of the controller. The left one is for frequency UP and the next one is for frequency DOWN. You will see that every press of the button is visualized on the small red display. If your idler wheel is set to 33 RPMs, the setting of the 33 RPMS is @ around 51hz. It depends on the wheel diameter and you will set it up very easy.
Re: Garrard 301 από την αρχή
Καθαρή κατασκευή και διάταξη, μου αρέσει. Νομίζω πρέπει να ξεχωρίσω το motor controller σε άλλο νήμα για να βάλω και καποια στοιχεία απο αλλα σχεδια σαμ το δικό μου.
Παναγιώτης
- AthanasiosL
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:00 pm
Re: Garrard 301 από την αρχή
Οταν το πάρω θα βγάλω και καλύτερες φωτογραφίες του εσωτερικού, πλακέτες, συνδέσεις κλπ (να φαίνονται λεπτομέρειες για κάποιον που θέλει να το φτιάξει μόνος). Αν σε ενδιαφέρει να το τεστάρεις μου λές.